Tulum is a magical place

Nomad Remy
5 min readMay 15, 2022

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RAUM café in La Veleta

In 2022, I moved to Tulum. I had visited Quintana Roo once before in 2021 but that was in the middle of the Covid pandemic. Tulum seemed like the ultimate Covid escape at that point. I enjoyed the escape from my western urban life as well as masks and covid passes.

This time though, I decided to do things properly and stay for a long period.

Tulum is a sinking Utopia…

Azulik, Tulum
Azulik hotel near Tulum Mayan Beach

What makes Tulum magical?

Tulum is a city bustling with europeans who have decided to leave the comfort of their European homes to stay in the middle of the Mayan jungle. Most of the people you meet in Tulum are Spanish, French, German and British, here to live a spiritual trip in the middle of the jungle.

After talking to multiple people here in Tulum, most people come here to find themselves, not to profit/consume as we tend to do in western society.

I spoke to this one girl in a restaurant near the beach the other day, she was telling me about how annoying it was to go out in Paris her home town before moving to Tulum. She said : “I don’t know how you do it, when I was in Paris, I couldn’t go out without people hitting on me, looking at me, touching me, trying to abuse my presence. Here in Tulum, people are here to heal, feel themselves and self love.”

Those words are pretty close to reality. People are genuinely kind and most do not mean harm. The feeling is more : “Let’s enjoy the wonderful weather and the remote location as much as we can tonight”

Tulum is like Narnia

Tulum is like Narnia. People arrive, get trapped in the closet and wake up years later to find that society has not changed. Tulum might have aged 20 years in your mind, however back in the city where you are from, life has stayed the same. Only time has passed.

People on average are more attractive in Tulum. You might say this is subjective, however people definitely look more fit and healthier. It is part of Tulum culture to work out every day and take in the sun. Most people that have stayed in Tulum for multiple months develop this smooth and deep tan.

Seeing others expose their fit bodies motivates others to take care of themselves and work out.

A Balance

Tulum is a place where you find a balance like nowhere else. On one side of the street, you see beautiful instagram models walking to get a bowl of cocoa in a coconut shell; driving down the street is a police truck with a member of the marine or heavy military division holding a turret at the back of the vehicle; Stray dogs are crossing the road and Mexican construction workers are carrying heavy loads for a new project going up.

Tulum is one of the least safest places, yet people walk the streets with no fear at all. This is what creates the charm of the town.

A marine officer buying oreos at a local grocery store

Why is the end in sight?

As just as all utopias, Tulum will fall some time soon. The seasons might not change in Quintana Roo, however as time goes by, there is a change in population. What started out as a hippy fishing town is slowly turning into a Las Vegas.

This isn’t the first time that something like this has happened. Playa del Carmen used to be the hottest spot in the country twenty years ago. Now it is a small American enclave with low end restaurants, drug stores and loud clubs. Playa del Carmen went from paradise to a nuisance. This also was the case for Cancun twenty years before that.

A Change in Population

As time goes by more and more instagram models and influencers decide to go to Tulum as a “Must visit” destination. These accounts acquire more and more traffic driving more influencers to come, and then the followers follow.

A Change in Real Estate

As money is pouring in (and it literally is) the real estate projects are blowing up. Most of the people that I have met in Tulum are in the local real estate market. Either they are buying, building or renting a condo, penthouse or studio in the newest project. There are signs to buy real estate everywhere!

Projects are going up everywhere

Tulum’s Charm is Disapearing

What made Tulum’s charm is slowly disappearing. The road that goes from La Valeta to the beach used to be a chalky stone path with no lights at night. Now the road is paved and they have already put 6 topes! Soon there will be road lights (for safety reasons) and the road will have lost its authentic feeling.

The jungle is becoming less dense over time with the arrival of big real estate projects. You can see people on the roof of the next door complex, instead of seeing the sun set over the Mayan Jungle.

The sun rising above the jungle. You can see the other condos popping up

Drugs are going out of control

With money coming in, there is no way to control the drugs and drug dealers. They are everywhere! You will see them on the beach asking you nicely if you are looking for cocaine. They will be in most of the big restaurants and clubs on the beach.

This to me brings down the global experience and creates insecurity. The first week I was in Tulum, there was a massive shoot-out in a beach-club restaurant. Two people died and one was severely injured (which probably means one died later because of the lack of hospitals in Tulum). This happens quite often in Tulum and it can send chills down your spine.

What do you think about Tulum?

Have you been there? Did you go on vacation or did you work there? How did you like it? Would you go back?

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